Flat or round
Changsha rice noodles are made from rice and usually come flat or round. Makers generally choose local early indica rice grown for at least a year, which keeps the noodles from sticking and helps them hold their shape. Flat noodles go through soaking, grinding, steaming, forming, drying, oiling, folding and cutting; they are thin and wide, soak up broth readily, and are the more popular choice in Changsha. Round noodles are pressed into shape, have more chew, and often go with red broth and strongly flavoured toppings; round noodles also come in thicknesses, with the thick ones better for dry-tossed or red-broth bowls. Flat noodles are mostly fresh and keep for a short time, so before refrigerators they had to be eaten quickly. The noodles themselves have little taste; the difference between bowls lies in the broth and toppings.
The simplest way to order is “flat” or “round”. When Changde rice noodles entered Changsha more than twenty years ago, the shop phrase “qi yuan di qi bian di” (round or flat?) became a catchphrase, and many shops still ask it first; round noodles have since won more fans in Changsha.
Broth and toppings
Changsha rice noodles belong to the clear-broth school. The broth is usually simmered from pork leg bones, and there are also beef-bone and chicken broths; while simmering, cooks add fermented black beans, pepper and a little liquorice for flavour. Broth is the soul of the bowl: clear broth should be fresh and sweet, red broth fragrant and hot; Changde and Shaoyang noodles in Hunan are known for red broth. Toppings include braised “wei” toppings prepared in advance, “chao” toppings stir-fried to order, and steamed ones such as minced pork with egg: minced meat and egg are steamed and turned out over the noodles, a Changsha speciality. Shredded pork and braised pork are the most common braised toppings; chili-fried pork is a popular stir-fried one. The broth is seasoned after simmering, and the noodles are blanched and bowled in a moment.
The table usually also holds chopped chili, pickled beans, pickled mustard tuber and pork cracklings to add. Flat noodles with clear broth and braised toppings, and round noodles with red broth and beef or other strong toppings, are common local pairings; flat noodles are mostly fresh and show their rice aroma best with clear broth.
A bowl in the morning
Rice noodles are a common breakfast and late-night choice in Changsha. Noodle shops are busiest in the morning, and some serve both breakfast and late-night bowls. Order the noodle and topping first, then decide between soup or dry-tossed; dry-tossed has no broth and relies on the oil and sauce of the topping, so the flavour is more concentrated and a layer of red oil often remains in the bowl. Add a topping for a bigger meal, or choose shredded-pork soup noodles for something lighter; shops usually price by the bowl and charge extra for toppings, so check the price list.
The heat comes mainly from chopped chili and the topping. If you do not eat spicy food, leave out the table chili or ask for a non-spicy version. Breakfast and late night are the two peaks, so avoid them if you are in a hurry. Locals often sip the broth first, then stir the topping through; a bowl arrives quickly, so it suits a tight schedule, and a spoonful of chopped chili is enough to flavour clear broth. Eat it hot, as the noodles clump when left.
Useful official references
Check the relevant official service before making arrangements. These links are references, not a guarantee of current services.
